Japan travelogue thread

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maru
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An intermission: designs

Post by maru »

I did not take many photos today. It was meant to be a relaxation day before going to Kyoto, then it became just as busy as the other days usually are with wandering around. And now Kyoto tomorrow seems uncertain -- it's supposed to be 37 degrees before humidity, and we expect a bit less air conditioning during the day to ward off heat stroke.

So, all in all today we went cafe hopping, trying one near the river where two people were either on an awkward date speaking basic Japanese or a language exchange session; then trying one where it is the "#3 coffee beans in Japan" with a bit more seating space; then trying another one that serves specialty coffee imports. I had Americanos over and over but it all sort of tasted like drip coffee. Slightly sour, a bit thin, no cream on the top from oils. Yeah yeah, I sound like a coffee snob asshole, but so far, I like the Boss the most. I'd even take not coffee -- Georgia Coffee.

Then Rebecca went to get souvenirs, so we went through vintage shops and book stores and stationery departments. I keep seeing this Metacil device that appears to be a pencil that is always sharp and not quite a pencil, made by ... Bandai Namco.

You see Bandai Namco everywhere, by the way -- they run the Gacha machines for other brands in all the malls here, and they get practically two floors in Hep Five to themselves. The top floor is just cosplay rental and literally legions of girls get together to cosplay together on the weekend.

There's a lot of little things I haven't mentioned because in the sensorium flurry thoughts come and go and get vaguely internalised as a broader question. I wanted to just do a grabbag today to help catch some interesting things. Nothing is universal, I guess -- just how things have been in the week I've been here.
  • Go to an indie record or book store and it's the Beatles (specifically Revolver and earlier?), Nick Drake, Beach Boys, that sort of scene. Go to a bar and it's uh, light lounge-y jazz. Hole in the wall izakaya plays El Scorcho, hey why not. Cafes either play Japanese indie or, like, 00s-present American stuff. We heard a lot of Shaggy and Pitbull in the one cafe. There's an ongoing sense of having aspects of Western culture filtered through to here -- a refraction, distilling aesthetics until it's soft and beautiful. Americana has never been so cool. You get full denim and army jackets like it's candy. Likewise -- what can I say? We refract Japan, too -- the bands I like are not necessarily the most common here; a lot of the more gauche or loud things are less apparent from far away.
  • Department stores and "Welcome to Japan!" outlets alike -- anything where there's tourists -- have a plethora of Japanese pop culture artifacts just mixed together with Shinobi attire and fake katanas and like, shinto wards. There's a Blue Eyes White Dragon decking the windows outside the centre in the Osaka Castle. There's Totoro, Pokemon and Sanrio character paraphenelia in very disparate outlets, and the same stuff, too. It's not restricted to IP -- everyone licenses out to each other and it's presented as one Mass of Japanese culture for export. Interestingly it's not necessarily true that Shonen Jump stuff is universally available. Dragon Ball is an exception. Also Chucky stuff and Minions stuff. I can't think of strong Canadian analogues, besides having Roots stuff available everywhere and maple syrup and stuff.
  • Family Mart has saved my life so many times. 24 hours, like every 50m, including clothes, food, notebooks and pencils, little hygenic stuff. I have a Family Mart handkerchief in its famous colours. It is a treasure to me, now. Their socks are stronger than the socks I went out and bought from a regular store.
  • Speaking of -- I've gestured to this before, but carrying around a handkerchief is cool and I don't know why we don't do it anymore. It's just handy. My day bag has my camera, wallet, a Yen coin purse, a handkerchief, a notebook and pen, and my IC card.
  • I've eaten so much toast. I've eaten so many light sandwiches. It's harder to get greasy food unless it's a bar atmosphere or an American import. It's usually pretty light stuff. I feel kinda full anyway, though.
Here is a gay-friendly water bottle.
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Here is an ominous retirement home thing:
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Finally, I also want to share some examples of cool designs and colour usage (including a bit from today's bookstore trip):
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by sinku »

yeah maru ge t that gay water

Tall buildings and bustle and heat ... energy ... I think there is a broad recognition among ppl our age, of some lack, and from that a desire for greater density in the US and UK. I hope something happens that makes it real, some building boom or massive expansion.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by JennyDog »

I am so seriously tempted by the HTML/CSS and Python book with the girls.

The soft American is fascinating, especially the army jackets -- I got a very post-M95 or w/e jacket aesthetic because of Mote, seeing that as regular fashion is neat.

As a person whose never visited Japan: I think one thing I've seen talked up about Japan that sounds lovely is how w/e combination of geopgrahy culture and policy mean lots of neat specialist shops, there was a great story about someone just walking to one and asking about Tower of Duraga level early RPG lore and the guy working there just phones up his friend and gives him some tidbits never written down. I feel like the US has that but not to that extent. Hopefully I'm not hijacking the thoughts !
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by maru »

JennyDog wrote: Sun Sep 08, 2024 9:43 pmHopefully I'm not hijacking the thoughts !
I want this to be a broader conversation, though ! I want more thoughts.

There's definitely a ton of specialist shops. I like that the most. There's places like that in the States, less so in Canada, but they are very spread out. Hole in the wall in Nebraska.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by rebecca »

fun fact for those following along:

the reason why the familymart goods (stationery, handkerchiefs, socks, numerous other necessities) far surpass those of a store dedicated to socks is because familymart has a collaboration with muji. incredible, brilliant marketing on their part.

it has been a recurring joy to hear the words "i need more socks..." from maru. to familymart!
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by maru »

We thought we weren't going to Kyoto today, but we did. We thought it was a simple day where we just work -- well, we did do that. We opened by going to our "number 3 coffee place in Japan," where I finally got a nice pourover and we got to focus a bit on our respective work. I did some VN work, listening to a lot of tracks in progress and then getting some design ideas for the menu. I also renovated my website a tiny bit last night -- not the SDF one, my professional one. In general I find myself wanting to take more cues in terms of colour and font choice from the graphic design here (and I was already doing that before...), so I've been trying things out.

Around 1pm, we felt basically ready to head out, since it wasn't quite 37, more like 33. Though I did see that next week Osaka hits a humidex of 45 a few times. So. That's cool.

We took a train up to Kyoto that was a peaceful passenger car-styled experience with window blinds. There's a lot of sex-segregated train cars but I never see the actual segregation in practice. It seems like it's just early morning when they enforce it? Then $8 later, we were there. We stopped by Nintendo Kyoto where it was essentially just a merchandise warehouse for the really big properties staffed by extremely chipper people. Nintendo has a Disney affect sometimes. I didn't get anything (an Animal Crossing handkerchief is a cute idea, but not when it's directly branded with the game title as part of the embroidering). No Metroid stuff. Lots of Mario-themed items, dolls, coin purses in overalls; Zelda merch but only Breath of the Wild-era, you see Twilight Princess Link two or three times, and a single Link to the Past pixel art tote bag. Some Splatoon. I thought they would do a Pokemon Centre-esque thing where you get limited time game stuff, or like a rare colourway of a console. But no such luck anymore. I guess I have little use for a Switch Lite anyway.
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But we didn't come to Kyoto to shop. We came to see Old Stuff -- though that means accepting it's a tourist town and restaurants just got 3x more expensive. Kyoto was founded in the 700s and it has a population of over a million people, but it sort of feels like a theme park. So much of the experience of Kyoto is just how many people are here to photograph the scenery and each other.
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Lots of girls, Japanese and foreign alike, come to rent kimonos and post demurely in picturesque settings. The origin of the "wise Japan" ("did you know they have a term for the beauty of decay? Well with our new product, adopt it in your own home") aesthetic appears to be from here. Dark, lacquered wood and slanted roof. I don't know. You know Granville Island in Vancouver? It's this island between Fairview and the West End where there's a bunch of bars and Artisanal Foods and a jar of pickles is $20 and nanaimo bars are $15 and you take a ferry to get there and it's basically where everyone who visits stops by, before going for a hike.

But I was sort of here for the nighttime experience. I've been tantalised by midnight Kyoto walks before. I wanted to see these streets in orange. So after we got some dinner ("nihongo jouzu!") we walked through side street after side street and I just felt like I had seen these streets before, maybe in other media -- and somehow, people just came home to their apartments here like it was an everyday thing. It felt bizarre.
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We finally did another tour around the shrine we encountered at the start of the day and it was, of course, "always open" -- it's a shrine. People were still walking through as a pair of Australians were explaining to each other in the darkness about how Japan invented magic thousands of years ago.
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On the way home we talked a bit about how with enough time here it starts to just feel like it's your life. I guess it's been a week. I forget what's going on at home, that there's a home at all. Things just feel like they're becoming normal, and I feel sort of like I'll either miss or forget these life patterns. Family Mart has a promotion for Luigi blankets. Everyone is on LINE, including landmarks and train stations. Everything is closeby, dense, possible. It's a nice life to fall into.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by maru »

Quiet day today. Was a toss-up between an impromptu Tokyo trip and a reading day, and it ended up being a reading day -- I also inadvertently caught up on some sleep midday. I tried to look for parts of Osaka I haven't seen yet, so I headed to this Jazz cafe, though it's more of a cafe that plays jazz. They have newspapers available and it's an elderly crowd; it was 450 yen for a sandwich morning set, which is like ... $3, and it was the best coffee I've had so far. Nice, slightly smokey but mellow stuff. I don't know when this turned into a cafe trip. There's just a lot of cafes.

After getting nihongo jouzu'd I tried to walk the Yodo River but it gets a little industrial and a man in a hard hat shoo'd me away. Well-cultivated, though, and quiet. I started to really feel the heat, so I kept moving.
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I tried Cafe Fate after a brief thrift store trip where I got a Bill Evans CD for a dollar; it's more of a fancy French toast place though their coffee was also good. There was just a sign on the street gesturing there and I am required to go anywhere that has the word Fate in it.

Then I was curious about this place, but check out their website and some of the lower reviews; while you can definitely stop and read there, the amount of gentle-but-firm control over the space stresses me out a little...

Tomorrow we're hitting southern Kansai, so it'll be my first time in a small town. Rebecca went to East Kansai today and it seemed like a Prettier Experience in the Japanese equivalent of Twin Peaks, including an even cooler jazz cafe. Alas.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by thursday »

i do miss the canned coffee machines. hot canned drinks in konbini. what a world. every night i was doing a pizza delivery shift i would pout about how my options were mcdonalds or gas station coffee. miserable.
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Kushimoto

Post by maru »

Today we headed down to the most southernmost tip of Honshu, Kushimoto. Up at like 8am, we went to get a rail pass for the Wakayama / Osaka / Ise corridor, which I guess includes Nagoya in that, which helps for Saturday, and possibly helps with Nara, if we do go there.

For today though, we got on a train that let off at Shirahama, which had a collection of taxi services, a burger bar and a cafe, as well as many animal-inflected designs. The burger place of course had the Beatles on the wall and moved between old American stuff and Plastic Love.
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Then after an hour we paid out and got on the next train to complete the trip to Kushimoto.
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Our host was already there and got us into the car to drive to our place. But he really wanted us to see everything. He rendered my name as Ma-so-da, which ... maybe it's a joke. I am not sure. He made a lot of jokes I did not understand. He started out mostly in English and driving us to every museum and landmark in the small town, but the more Japanese we spoke the more he just used only Japanese and the more we tilted our heads and said "Wakarimasen".

The museums and the landmarks are mostly about the postwar period and the formation of the hot springs in Japan, with lots of diagrams of the development of the landmass under tectonic plates. These too were mostly in Japanese but you can basically understand what is going on. We went to the lowest point in Honshu and looked south at Australia.
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He would check in like "do you want to go to your room? Are you hungry? OK then let's do the next thing" and we would drive through the scenic parts. It was nice but I felt like I was disappointing them by dropping in so fast. The pace of the place is a bit slower than Osaka (itself already slower than Tokyo), so appearing overnight and then going is like taking in a single breath.

After dropping our bags (and saying hello to a lot of kids?) we then went to head to the beach before the sun went down. An older man was just sitting at the beach with a camera the entire time. It was only when I went closer that I realised that the camera was taking shots by itself every few seconds. He was sitting while it ran through the roll, almost like a fisherman? He would go home and maybe do a timelapse, maybe pick the most perfect shot of the day, but for hours he just sat and patiently watched it go.
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Otherwise we just did laps, barefoot, swimming or half-walking through the tide, until it got truly dark.
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We then walked back and got intercepted as our host pointed out every single restaurant on the map and called them one by one saying in Japanese that two cute girls from Canada were here so they should open or stay open. The weird thing was that if they were closed they'd still answer? Like it was their home number. Eventually he pointed out one place and we prepared to head over. It was a couple running the place with one other customer. Mostly the man was silent until he finished cooking and then just started talking about all sorts of things, in Japanese, and we would constantly scramble between us to quickly understand the gestalt. But mostly I felt like we failed the quick time event over and over, but he seemed to say that body language and the style of conversation was all you really needed and that it was a challenge to come here at all. He said everyone just comes in and points to the menu and says "this!" (we didn't, so maybe that's why?) or uses the phone to intercede, making you both talk into it, but man-to-man communication was important.

Then he asked where we were going, and like our host, was kind of incredulous we came all this way to go to Nachi and then go right back to Osaka -- the feeling was "why are you spending so much time in Osaka of all places? Not even Tokyo but Osaka?" Like we should treat it like a vacation and go somewhere nice and quiet and for a long time. We aren't -- we have basically all of Japan on the map besides Hokkaido. But he said Nachi was beautiful and talked a bit about his experience going to the shrine there as a child and how everyone from around Japan would come to this trail and that it was worth going on.

As a sidebar cockroaches are kinda common in restaurants but nobody seems to care? We don't react, they don't react, they just crawl on stuff and we assume "oh they must not be a big deal here," though in Canada a roach would get your store closed down for a month. I guess it's just way more common and not a huge disease vector but it's a little unsettling.

Um, anyway after that we decided to go back to the pier at dark. We wanted to see the stars, and there's ... so many. After walking a dark pier (with a lone car left running with ostensibly no one in it), passing scuttling cockroaches meandering through plants, we came back to our place here -- a guest house on a large property -- and now we're getting ready for tomorrow's trip. I can't help but think about the tension between our speed and the slowness of the town. Everyone is so happy to talk, even if you understand like 3% of it, like there's nothing more important than just being here right now enjoying the day.
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Re: Kushimoto

Post by sinku »

maru wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 11:33 am there's nothing more important than just being here right now enjoying the day.
i love that sensation. being present, talking to strangers who like to talk back, feeling like a little blip in their life for a while, then moving on. i dunno if its exclusive to the slow, small coastal town, but thats how it is around where I live. and I get to enjoy it when I go work.

unrelated; call of the void, but its wanting to grab a roach and pick it up
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by meri »

i'm glad that you managed to find someone so friendly to talk to in japan (though, i guess it's their job?). my friends who have gone, some really proficient in japanese claimed that nobody wanted to speak to you or would even be bothered to have been talked to. maybe this is just how the bigger cities are? they did a bit of both - rural and city. the couples that ran restaurants off the beaten path were always very chatty and curious about why a foreigner would come to their spot, it genuinely seems cozy! my japanese has rusted a bit, so i wonder how i'd do.

beautiful photos genuinely. i find myself very sucked into the settings you describe, even to the point of longing for them. it sounds like you're getting the intended japan experience.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by maru »

meri wrote: Thu Sep 12, 2024 8:05 pm my friends who have gone, some really proficient in japanese claimed that nobody wanted to speak to you or would even be bothered to have been talked to. maybe this is just how the bigger cities are?
I think this would definitely be the case in Tokyo. At least the time we were there we didn't talk to a soul. Osaka is still like that. I've only ever introduced myself in smaller towns.
my japanese has rusted a bit, so i wonder how i'd do.

beautiful photos genuinely. i find myself very sucked into the settings you describe, even to the point of longing for them. it sounds like you're getting the intended japan experience.
Why don't you plan a trip of your own? It feels like something that would be good for you.
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by maru »

It's noon on Friday and I never really wrote about Thursday -- yesterday we went to the Nachi Waterfall and its associated shrine. It's only an hour east of where we were, so it didn't feel so bad. And getting there was nice! We stopped by Nanki-Katsuura, an onsen town, just between trains and buses. They have their own mascot girl?
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Then after nihongo jouzu, honey butter toast and fresh orange juice from a mom and pop juice place, we got on a bus up to Nachisan.
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The elevation is pretty high -- the waterfall itself is 133m and the bus went way up into the mountains as it was. The weather felt much less humid and the shade of the forest also helped with the trek, b getting from the Falls itself to some of the other temples involved a long hike where at the top temple the waterfall appeared to be around eye level -- at least, you could see the top of it now.

So from the bottom shrine, where the worship stage to the waterfall existed -- and where you could take and drink a cup of the water to get a +3 HP buff -- we made our way up. I was lugging other people's trash because it just felt wrong that it was there on the site where mikos are supposed to dance to the kami. I know there's literally no bins for trash unless you hike up a kilometre ... still, I think between the water and the deed I was gaining favour with Hiryu Gongen.
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Then after climbing to the very top temple we made our way back down.
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Exhausted I asked if we could get ice cream and we sat at the bus stop licking our soft serve. An older man seemed really really exhausted and I asked if he was okay and he nihongo jouzu'd me in reply. I tried to get him something to drink but I did not even know how to phrase the question right. He seemed to think I was asking him if anything here was Good when I meant like, is there something he would want that I could go get? Anyway.
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We made our way back to the train and after about 4 hours were in Osaka again. I met up with my friend Alice and had way too many drinks and Okinawan food. I'm supposed to do Nagoya tomorrow, but I might end up doing a minor detour into Tokyo. Not clear! Today is more of a downtime-and-do-work day, and we're parked at maybe the most American cafe here, which is sort of offputting in a way. After so many cafes not like this, it feels strange and familiar at once. "Uncanny," right?
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by hint_of_jasmine »

“An older man was just sitting at the beach with a camera the entire time. It was only when I went closer that I realised that the camera was taking shots by itself every few seconds. He was sitting while it ran through the roll, almost like a fisherman? He would go home and maybe do a timelapse, maybe pick the most perfect shot of the day, but for hours he just sat and patiently watched it go.”

Absolute beauty. First, the thing itself. The time taken, the slow life. The perfect shot takes time, so, he is spending time. He could have just taken a snapshot. But he’s giving it the time it needs to get something exceptional. It’s so different from the satisficing I often find myself doing.

But also I think the writing conveyed this well. It really communicated this emotion
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Re: Japan travelogue thread

Post by hint_of_jasmine »

(double post… sorry, it’s been years!)
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